Leather labels are full of terms that sound similar but mean very different things. "Genuine leather" sounds premium but is one of the lower grades. "Full-grain" is the strongest. Here's what each common term actually means, in plain words, and where it applies to what we make.
Leather grades
Full-grain leather
The top layer of the hide with its natural surface left intact. It's the strongest and longest-lasting grade, and it develops a patina instead of wearing out. All Emery leather is full-grain. Read more in what is full-grain leather.
Top-grain leather
The same top layer, but sanded and usually coated to look uniform. It looks neat at first, but once the coating wears through it can crack or peel.
Genuine leather
A lower layer of the hide, usually heavily processed and coated. It is real leather, but not durable leather. On a label, the term is mostly marketing.
Split leather
The lower part of the hide left after the top grain is split off. It's often embossed with a fake grain or turned into suede.
Bonded leather
Leather scraps ground up and glued together with a plastic surface. It's the cheapest kind and tends to peel within a year or two.
Types of leather
Calf leather
Leather from young cattle. It has a fine, tight grain and a smooth, refined surface, which suits structured pieces like the Prestige Briefcase and the Astrid Tote.
Cowhide
Leather from mature cattle. It's thicker and tougher than calf, which makes it a good choice for belts and travel pieces that take daily wear, like the Prestige Belt.
Chèvre leather
French for goat leather. It has a naturally pebbled grain, is light and supple, and hides small scratches well. We use it for the Alden RFID Card Case and the Alden RFID Wallet Chèvre. Here's how calf and chèvre compare.
Pebbled leather
Leather with a raised, textured grain, either natural (as in chèvre) or pressed into the surface. It's soft to the touch and shows wear less than smooth leather.
Suede and nubuck
Suede is the inner side of the hide brushed to a soft nap. Nubuck is the outer side, lightly sanded for a similar velvety feel. Both look beautiful but stain easily, so they're less practical in heat and dust.
Tanning and finishing
Tanning
The process that turns raw hide into stable, long-lasting leather. Without it, hide would rot or go stiff.
Vegetable-tanned leather
Leather tanned with natural tannins from bark and plants. It takes longer to make, is firm at first, softens with use and develops a rich patina. All Emery leather is vegetable-tanned.
Chrome-tanned leather
Leather tanned with chromium salts. It's faster to produce, softer from the start and holds colour well, and most leather in the world is made this way.
Patina
The sheen and depth of colour that full-grain leather builds up with use, light and handling. It's a sign of good leather ageing well, not of wear.
Edge finishing (edge paint)
The way the cut edges of leather are sealed, usually with layers of paint or by burnishing. Smooth, even edges are one of the quickest signs of careful work.
Standards and hardware
LWG certification
The Leather Working Group audits tanneries on environmental performance: water and energy use, chemical management and traceability. All Emery leather comes from LWG-certified tanneries.
Solid brass hardware
Buckles, zips and fittings made from brass all the way through, rather than plated over cheaper metal. It doesn't flake, and it ages to a soft shine. All Emery hardware is solid brass, except the Prestige Belt, which has a stainless steel buckle.
YKK zip
Zips made by YKK, the Japanese company known for reliable zips. Every Emery zip is YKK.
RFID protection
A lining that blocks wireless readers from scanning contactless cards at close range. It's a small extra layer of security, found in the Alden wallets, card case and Voyager wallets.
Care terms
Leather conditioner
A balm or cream that puts oils back into leather so it doesn't dry out or crack. In the UAE, use a neutral one every two to three months. See our leather care guide for the UAE and GCC.
Dust bag
A cotton bag for storing leather. Cotton lets the leather breathe, while plastic traps moisture and can cause mould.
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